Tuesday, September 15, 2009

                                                             Barcelona in a "big" nut shell



Isn't it simply amazing how time flies? Here we are at the end of summer 2009 and I am only now posting pix from our time in Barcelona, almost a year ago! There never seems to be enough time, especially when we are trying to hike as many mountains here in Jasper National Park as we can!

Our Moroccan adventures having ended safely back in Spain, we took leave of Madrid, Julio and his dear mother, Josephine, by hopping an overnight bus to Barcelona. Most people would probably agree that travelling by coach is the least comfortable of all methods of transportations. As I have been blessed with the ability to sleep in almost any circumstance, I did not truly agree with this opinion until this overnight bus experience. We had managed to get the last two tickets on the evening coach, which turned out to be at the VERY back of the bus. A few problems revealed themselves quickly within minutes:

Firstly, as I am not the tallest or heaviest of people, I could not keep the back of my seat in a reclined fashion and every few minutes, my seat back would spring back into the upright position. Not very comfortable. Secondly, there is usually at least one annoying person on every long bus ride. Our "annoying person for the day" happened to be sitting right in front of us. Not only did she complain non-stop, she tried to push her "very expensive and fragile" painting into Adam's face, while crushing his knees with the back of her seat. As you can imagine, neither of us slept much on this night and were a bit dishevelled upon arrival in Barcelona at 7am in the morning!

Thankfully, from there on in, Barcelona proved to be one of our best adventures and we had an amazing time there.

After a continental breakfast, a couple of rest stops and a few pricings, we settled ourselves into Hostal Lausanne, right in the heart of the city. Situated on the main shopping street of Portal de l’Angel, only minutes away from Plaça Catalunya, we were in walking distance to most areas and the underground subway system.

Our first day in Barcelona was mostly a rest day - long afternoon naps, wandering aimlessly in the vicinity and getting in touch with Adam's old boss from Bournemouth, the illustrious Lee! Lucky for us, Lee had recently moved to Barcelona to take up a new position and so we had our own personal guide for a few days! We met up for dinner at "Fresco", an affordable buffet-style restaurant, with lots of fresh salads, vegetables and a free drink to accompany your meal! We enjoyed a few drinks in various bars together, whilst people watching - as it was Halloween!

The next day, we were ready to take on the city! Meeting up with Lee, we walked down the famous street called "La Rambla" or "Las Ramblas", getting lost amongst the flow of people shopping and sightseeing down towards the port.





At the port, we were introduced to Lee's friends, John and Eugene, who only had the day to see all of Barcelona's glory. So we started by taking in the Statue of Christopher Columbus, pointing to the new world, I assume, the many yachts and old buildings along the port side.







One cannot visit Barcelona without making a point to see some of Antoni Gaudi's famous architectural feats. Hence, we made our way to see La Casa Batlló - a building façade Gaudi was commissioned to refurbish in 1904. La Casa Batlló is a prime example of Gaudi at his best. With full creative freedom, he used all manners of materials, including stone, wood, ceramic, iron and glass. His love of nature can be readily seen with the many uses of colourful ceramics depicting flowers, undulating surfaces and plant motifs.

**Don't forget to click on the photo for a closer view - definitely worth it for all the Gaudi works!!**



Next, we meandered to MILÀ HOUSE, La Pedrera. Gaudi, having finished his work on La Casa Batlló in 1906, was hired by the wealthy Mr. Pere Milà to create for him a monumental home. Two blocks of apartments with separate entrances, unified by a common undulating façade, made La Pedrera like "living in a stone sculpture".



Some of the more interesting aspects of La Pedrera are the enormous windows allowing light into each open planned apartment, some with shoreline-like ceilings, all maintaining a feeling of motion and the unique iron balconies forged to imitate vegetal forms.



Can anyone find the hidden star?

Finally to complete our tour of Gaudi creations for the day, we followed the crowd to the impressive La Sagrada Familia. The immense Roman-Catholic church was begun in 1882, designed by Gaudi, who worked on and off on it for many years, until finally completely devoting his last 15 years of life to the project. The Sagrada Familia is expected to be completed by 2026, well over a century of construction and delay. Even if Gaudi had not been run over by a tram car and died prematurely, he would never have lived to see its completion. However, it seemed that he was not overly concerned as he was said to have commented, "My client is not in a hurry."



The Sagrada Familia is filled with Christian symbolism, as Gaudi wanted it to be the "last great sanctuary of Christendom". Once completed, it shall have three separate façades: the Nativity façade to the East, the Glory façade to the South (yet to be completed) and the Passion façade to the West.

Although incomplete, The Sagrada Familia is one of the top tourist attractions in all of Spain. Standing before it, you can definitely feel overwhelmed by all the detail and towering spires. Truly worth a visit.

Inspired by such great architecture, we decided to continue doing some sightseeing. We hopped on the nearest Metro (subway) to the "Placa Espanya" station and made our way up the hill of Montjuïc, where the views of Barcelona from the Palau Nacional are stunning. The Palau Nacional (National Palace), built in 1929 to house the International Exhibition, is home to the National Art Museum of Catalonia.





As the National Palace is located in the same area as the 1992 Estadi Olimpic (Barcelona Olympic Stadium), we took the short trek behind the beautiful Museum to admire the Olympic grounds.



Dusk was upon us so we hurried back to Montjuïc, as there were rumours of a "Magic Fountains" display. Sure enough, a large crowd had planted themselves on the many steps leading up to the Palau Nacional. Within minutes of anticipation, music, lights and streaming water filled our eyes and ears. To a medley of Broadway musical hits, including a Spanish version of "The Circle of Life" from The Lion King, beautiful patterns and varied lights dazzled the audience. As it turned out, these magical fountain shows happen only on the weekends and we were truly fortunate enough to be "in the right place at the right time".
































(We had made some video footage of this great display but I have yet to figure out how to upload them onto this blog site! If you are interested, let me know and I can email them to you!)




By this time, after a long day of urban hiking, we were rather famished, as you can imagine. We decided to head to "The Eixample" (Catalan for "extension"), a district between the old city and what were once surrounding small towns from the 19th and early 20th centuries. There, we found a quaint little restaurant and had a fantastic meal, with various tapas, lovely wine and even better company. We had such a fantastic day with John, Eugene and Lee - we were sad that the day had to come to an end. It always warms my heart when one can meet complete strangers and share an adventure together - as though we were all old friends.



Before dropping John and Eugene off at their hotel, we went for a final night cap at an "English Pub" to reminisce about our meeting Lee in Bournemouth. (I must admit, I much prefer Spanish bars, with tapas served per drink ordered, to any English pub in any country! The only downfall being that anti-smoking laws are not in effect in Spain yet! :P) We eventually said our "goodnights" and farewells and dragged our tired feet home to our hostel.

Big hugs and muchas gracias to John and Eugene, for sharing your laughs and company, which made for a truly wonderful and memorable day! (Not to mention, GRACIAS for the dinner, as well!)

Having only two short days left to explore Barcelona, we hit the streets bright and early, though the weather was not overly cooperative.

We went back to the port and walked along the Barceloneta beach, admiring the rainbow over the ocean, the giant lobster statue (I AM from the Maritimes, afterall!) and the shimmering waves hitting the shoreline.







After hiding a while under the sheltered boardwalk from the rains, we came across the casino and opted to try our luck at Catalonian slots! Luck must have been on our side that day as we left after an hour with a profit that would cover our meals and fun for the day!

As the skies cleared up, we headed to the Parc de la Ciutadella, Barcelona's beautiful most central park. We only had a short time before we were to meet Lee for dinner back in the old Gothic Quarter, so we decided we would return the next day to take in the full grandness of the park.



As we made our way back to our hostel to change, we made a few stops in the Old Town Barri Gotic quarter. Barcelona's Old Town Gothic Quarter is crammed full of historic buildings and sites, including the Picasso Museum, Barcelona Cathedral, old ruins of Roman walls, and various museums. While most of Barcelona has large open streets and walkways, the Gothic Quarter maintains the ancient medieval feel with its narrow winding streets.





The remains of the old Roman walls actually emanated its history. Meanwhile, as Murphy's Law would have it, when we reached the grand Barcelona Cathedral, the interior was indeed grand but we found the exterior to be under renovation, of course.



We ended the evening with a quick bite and some drinks with Lee, saying our farewells and wishing him luck with his new life in Barcelona.

Muchas gracias, Lee!! You were a most gracious and fun host! Thank you for taking so much of your time to show us around and making our time in Barcelona so wonderful! We look forward to seeing you again! Salud, Lee!!!

As it was suddenly our final day before returning to rainy, cold England, we made the most of it and trekked across the city once again to the Parc de la Ciutadella. Once a hated citadel fortress by conquering King Phillip V, this enormous converted park holds a zoo, several museums, a beautiful fountain, a large lake and the Catalan Parliament.



This beautiful fountain is called the Cascada - built for the 1888 Universal Exhibition. Unfortunately, the triumphal arch and waterfall aspect of the fountain were also being renovated, hence are not shown in the photo. The Baroque design used was based on the Trevi Fountain in Rome, and the architect was assisted by Antoni Gaudi, still a student at the time.



The park being designated for the 1888 Universal Exhibition, there were many buildings constructed for the event, boosting the development of the park. One of these to have survived is the 'Castel dels Tres Dragons', built as a medieval castle which served as a restaurant during the 1888 exhibition. It is now home to the Museo de Zoologia.



We wandered through the park, although we knew we could not cover it all in one day, when we had other sites to see! We did come across a true mammoth though - a Woolly Mammoth!



Leaving the park, we turned our attention to the Spanish version of the "Arc de Triomf", which I cannot remember the Parisian one well-enough for a fair comparison to be made.



The third tallest and one of the most noticeable buildings in Barcelona happens to be shaped like a giant egg. We had seen a similar one in London, England (the Gherkin) and wondered if this too was simply an eccentric business building! Indeed the 33 story tower known as the Torre Agbar is home to the head office of Aigües de Barcelona Group, the water supply company of Barcelona.



The Agbar Tower is rather magnificent, with its 4500 LED luminous devices that allow it to reflect its variation of colours, particularly when lit up at night. A word to the wise, however, Torre Agbar retains its grandeur mostly from afar - we do not recommend a closer inspection!

Next stop was Park Güell, a garden replete with the imaginative architectural works of none other than Antoni Gaudi, situated on the hill of "el Carmel" in the Gràcia distric. Originally Count Eusebi Güell's idea for a housing site for the rich to get some fresh air and unmatched views of the city, the area was eventually turned into a municipal park with Gaudi's work from 1900 to 1914.

Located at the top of El Carmel hill, you are first impressed with the actual walk to the park. Steep streets and walkways from all directions lead towards the main entrance and if you choose to do the walk up the hill, there are thankfully a few sets of escalators for the steepest parts. Open-aired escalators on the streets - what a grand idea!!!



Upon reaching the main entrance, you are immediately thrown into a kind of "Alice in Wonderland" meets the "Gingerbread House" world. Two magical houses greet you at the entrance, while you admire the main focal point of the park - the beautiful terrace in the form of a sea serpent.



As you head up the steps to the terrace, Gaudi's famous multicoloured mosaic dragon fountain is well-worth the wait for a picture.



Nor should you hurry too quickly through this unique park - even the colonnaded footpaths are impressive!



One can truly understand Count Güell's wish for a luxurious neighbourhood as you take in the dramatic views from many locations throughout the park. In the distance, one can make out the various structures already familiar to our reader, including Sagrada Familia, Torre Agbar and even Montjuïc in the furthest reaches of the eye.



Gazing down the long way back, we pulled up our socks and started the trek home. Thankfully, you cannot go too far without finding a quaint little place for some tapas and a drink to rejuvenate tired bodies. Eventually, we made it back to our neck of the woods and had one last meal at "Fresco" and called it an early night. The next we had to take the shuttle to Girona Airport and return to Bournemouth.

We felt that we had made the most of our trip in Barcelona, although there were a million other things to do and see. We will simply have to return someday to see how the Sagrada Familia is coming along and the many other not-to-be-missed sights. Barcelona should definitely be one of the top cities to visit in Europe. But don't take our word for it, give it try yourself!



Thanks for checking in! I will try to get our whirlwind tour of the UK up soon.
Take good care and we miss you all!

Be sure to scroll down to the gallery as I have posted some new pix there too!
oxxo

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Morocco and Barcelona

**As always, if you make it through the posting, don't forget to scroll down to the gallery for more new pictures or to click to enlarge the posting pix!**

Here we are, well into the month of March and I am just getting around to post our pix and stories from Morocco and Barcelona.

Just to quickly update you all, we are presently in Adam's hometown, Midland, Ontario. We returned to Canada at the end of January, as our UK visas were running out.



We spent a few weeks visiting our friends and families in both Toronto and Midland - having belated birthday celebrations with mom, meeting our new little niece, Keyara and visiting with Thor and Fleureen, the new parents.






We also got to see my side of the family in Toronto and had a great few laughs. We met my newest cousin, Kaylee and saw how big little Maiya has gotten over the last year!



Then we drove Grandma Bernice down to Florida to help her (and us) escape from the winter blues.



We had a fabulous time with grannie once again - having lots of BBQs, doing crossword puzzles over morning coffee, basking in the warmth and sun, eating fresh fruit and avocados off grandma's trees and doing a little bit of house and yard work to earn our keep! We even celebrated our birthdays while in sunny Florida, with Adam getting in a game of golf (although it was quite a hazardous golf course!) and my requesting a BBQ feast on mine.



LOOK OUT BELOW!!!



We came back north and had a surprise visit with my dear friend, Dina - who came to town from Montreal with her band, Lake of Stew for a few gigs, which we enjoyed greatly with Ty, Rob and Aunty Ann too! Further north we headed, to do a little office work at Adam's mother's busy business and to have some more time with his family.







Soon, I will be flying west to reunite with my family, with Adam following after a little later. Okay...now finally on to Morocco and Barcelona!

I last left you with us visiting with Julio's mom in Madrid as we were getting ready to fly down to Rabat, the capital of Morocco. There are so many "no frills" cheap charter flight companies in Europe that we had to take advantage of being so close to Africa for the first time together.

We landed at the Mohammed V airport in Casablanca and took the train to Rabat, where a fellow UWC alumnus, Rachel, was to host us in her new home. The trains in Morocco were rather antiquated and we were amazed that they still ran!



Rachel came to meet us at the station and guided us through the busy streets of Rabat, while giving us some history and useful information about the culture and traditions.


(Thanks to Julio for this great shot!)

Morocco, in Arabic المغرب‎ al-Maġrib, is a nation of great contrast. The three main cultures of Arab, Berber (the native people)and French can be seen in most aspects of Moroccan life, along with a touch of Spanish influence. Although Arabic is the official language, French remains in great use for commerce and economics and Berber is still spoken by 40% of the population. Modern high-rises sit nestled among short, stocky shacks in the hundreds. These tiny boxes for homes, that are falling to pieces, all have state-of-the-art satellite dishes mounted to the brittle walls and roofs.



Being a Muslim state, most people wear the traditional djellaba, long, loose-fitting hooded robes with full sleeves, however, modern fashions are readily seen especially among the younger generations.



Rabat, on the coast of the Atlantic ocean, as well as being at the mouth of the Bou Regreg river, is a port city - along with its sister city across the water, Sale. Having a population of approximately 2 million people and the home of all foreign embassies, Rabat is the second most important city in the country, after Casablanca (although we personally prefer Rabat to its larger counterpart).



Most major cities in Morocco have a fortressed, walled-in section called "Medina", meaning "city" or "town" in modern day Arabic. Within these walls, the townspeople live and have their markets and shops in a labyrinth of streets, going as far back as the 9th century. The narrow winding streets are generally free of vehicles and can be less than a meter wide, which made it rather difficult for invaders, as they could easily get lost and confused. There are often many smaller mosques, monuments and fountains within the medina, which are both a cultural and a tourist attraction.



Although we had never met, Rachel was gracious enough to host all three of us strangers into her home. We quickly bonded over our common UWC experiences and connected immediately with her and her friends and roommate, Jess. They took great care of us, showing us all around, taking us out for great food and even found a western bar for us to have a toast!



We visited their friend, Matt at his luxurious apartment, tiled in traditional blue and white ceramics, gazed out over the city and marveled at the number of satellite dishes in sight.





We spent a couple of days getting to know the city, only getting lost momentarily in the medina, visited the Hassan Tower, which was meant to be the world's biggest minaret and mosque but was never completed as the sultan died, and the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, with its ornate designs.







As we only had a week in al-Magrib, we had to move as quickly as possible. Easier said than done sometimes, we took the train once more back to Casablanca to see if the romance of the movie had some reality to it.





Sadly, movie magic was not to be found. Instead, we found an extremely polluted, over-populated slum of a city. We were rather shocked at the depravity around us, seeing as Casablanca is such a famous place and is the largest economic center for the country.



The overbearing amount of poverty and pollution was made ever more poignant with the looming shadow of the giant Mosque of Hassan II on the outskirts of town. The mosque is built on reclaimed land on a promontory, with almost half of its surface lying over the Atlantic ocean, which can be seen through the enormous glass floor that can accommodate 25,000 worshippers. Enough said. Hassan II is the second largest mosque in the world (after the one in Mecca) and has the tallest minaret, standing at 210 meters.





Hassan II is also one of the very few mosques in the world that allows "infidels" to enter - only with expensive guided tours, of course. The detail and designs of the Zellige (Moroccan mosaic) are beautiful and impressive, as are the giant doors along the walls - truly large enough even for the gods. (Bad, infidel, bad!)



We wandered around the main streets of Casablanca, passed "Rick's Cafe" without stopping, bustled along the sketchy medina and made our way back to Rabat for the night. We were fully disenchanted with the place and felt as though we needed our lungs pumped from the fumes and exhaust of Casablanca.

We decided to head north with rumours of mountains in the distance. We hopped another train, this time to the town of Fes, the fourth largest city in Morocco. The famous medina of Fes el Bali, the old-walled city, has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981 and is one of the largest in the world, with over 9500 streets all in a maze formation.

After finding an inexpensive hotel to book into and wandering the streets for a while, we hopped a cab and made it to the old medina just before sunset and found ourselves a nice restaurant - outside seating to watch the crowds go by. We feasted on Morocco's famous dishes of "tajine" (usually meat and vegetables slowly cooked in a ceramic shallow bowl with a cone shaped lid that aids to keep the moisture and juices in) and the nation's staple of couscous!



After dinner, we opted for a "faux-guide" (a false guide) to take us around the medina as it was getting rather dark and did not want to wander ALL 9500+ streets by ourselves. We were led to various historical monuments and sights, with no shortage of stops in local shops - leather, blankets, rugs, shoes...you name it, we stopped there. Of course, we had been warned about these guides basically being "street-hustlers" but we enjoyed our tour and even the informative talk from our personal hustler. We stopped to rest in a "cafe" for a typical drink of mint tea - fresh mint leaves crushed into a black or green tea, doused with sugar or honey for a powerful drink. We loved these mint teas and had them pretty much daily.

Fes is also famous for its many tanneries - we managed to have a night tour of one, where we smelled the "dye aromas" for ourselves.



(I ended up with the softest new leather coat and my own pair of "baboush" slippers too!) Apparently, they use real saffron for the yellow dye of the "balgha", the traditional pointy slippers for men and pigeon feces for a white dye!



We found a local bar for a night cap and made our way back to our room (remember: it being a Muslim country, alcohol is pretty much banned and hard to come by - although in the cities, there are usually a few spots to quench an infidels' thirst). The night was unfortunately long, as the mosquitoes were merciless, and both Julio and I suffered through the buzzing and biting all night. (Lucky Adam didn't hear one single buzz or suffer a single bite. Having me next to him works better than any insect repellent, apparently.) We woke up the next morning amidst a ton of dead mosquito corpses, having rolled restlessly all night, to catch a bus out of town. As some of you may already know, I am a bug magnet and happen to be allergic to all sorts of bites. Fes, in particular, has rather nasty bugs. Within 24 hours, I had an array of very itchy, burning, infected bites (I counted 28 in total) and could no longer see or move very much. Over the next few days, these bites became monstrous blisters and I had to go on antibiotics and antihistamines to survive.

Caution: Gruesome pictures below.



The above picture is about a day after we left Fes. The picture below is a few days later as the boils formed.



Needless to say, I was not a happy camper and these bites made the rest of the trip a little more difficult.

However, as we left Fes, my allergic reaction to the bites had not become full blown yet, and we took a rickety old bus to Chefchaouen, even further north. Along the way, we stopped in the middle of a very arid nowhere to have lunch at a "food stand". This stand had lamb carcasses hanging out in the open, flies everywhere, a large BBQ open flame style, and you could line up for your order of raw meat (by weight) and give it to the "chefs". This place probably would never pass any health and safety inspections, but then...things are different in Morocco.



Our bus journey was mostly uneventful, although getting ONTO the bus was quite an ordeal. Some of you may have experienced being hassled and constantly harassed as a tourist target to spend money on something you do not need. Being a tourist in Morocco beats all other such experiences. You could not WALK 5 meters without multiple people trying to get money from you - whether they are trying to give you directions to the bus station obviously in front of you, or they would like to you buy something from their accessories' stand, or simply trying to show you the "sights" or to their hotel, it seemed nearly impossible to avoid getting harassed for money. It became such a frustrating constant, that we found ourselves having difficulty trusting the kind stranger that truly wanted to offer up some help. That being said, we return to our ordeal of getting on a bus from Fes to Chefchaouen:

We had taken a taxi to the bus station (which turned out to be only a few minutes away...but we somehow took the scenic route there), when the taxi driver decided to announce to the hoard of young men standing around that we were taking the bus to "Chefchaouen". Immediately, we had 3 guys trying to lead us to the correct window to buy our tickets. Now, not one of us can speak or read Arabic, but all three of us were more than capable of functioning in French, let alone read the romanized letters stating the various destinations. We tried politely to decline the various offers of help and eventually simply tried ignoring them. This was only partly successful as a couple of them continued to follow us all the way to the bus line and loitered around to try and get money from us. We were not too impressed with such attitudes but were even less happy when the bus porter tried to extort money for our day packs to be placed in the under-carriage (which we had wanted to carry on with us but were adamantly refused). They tried to charge us almost the equivalent of our actual ticket cost for each bag, that was being forced to go under. We obviously argued the fact and in the end, paid approximately the same as the locals for our "checked bags".

Once on the crowded bus, we bumbled northward and saw a few good sights.
If we had thought our bus was a slow or old form of transportation, we could hardly compete with the amount of mules and ponies slaving away.



We also saw some rather unique ways of travelling. Not recommended by doctors.



Chefchaouen, locally known simply as "Chaouen", is situated in the heart of the Rif Mountains, nestled between two mountains and has its name derived from the shapes of the two mountain tops - horns of a goat. Literally, "Chef Chaouen" means "look at the horns"!


(Thanks for this shot too, Julio!)

Famous for its hashish and for its sky-blue and whitewashed walls, Chaouen is a popular European tourist destination, being only a short ferry ride and trek from Spain. There in the north, you can hear Spanish spoken among the locals, as well as the tourists.



We found a very affordable hostel, within the old medina, with beautiful mosaic tiling in the common areas and meandered around before settling for a cozy restaurant for more tajine!





After the hustle and bustle of the larger cities, Chaouen was a welcome change, with its relaxed pace and its soothing blue surroundings.



Typical of most medinas, there were shops for all that can be imagined. Particularly enchanting were the spice shops!



The next day was a write-off for me as I had to stay in bed from the bite infections and allergies, but Adam and Julio braved the downpours to explore the town and to bring me food! During their wanders, they came across a Mother Theresa look-alike!



The local men coming down the steps from prayers at the mosque...



A mother and child walk through magical blue archways...




We were sad to leave such a quaint haven, but had to hurry south again in order to catch our flight out of Marrakesh. We took a very early morning bus back to Rabat to have a final visit with Rachel, Jess and their friends before hopping our last Moroccan train down to Marrakesh. Thanks again to Rachel and Jess for hosting us!
We all had a great time with you and your fabulous crew!

Our train down to Marrakesh was actually a pleasant trip, being not overcrowded and the scenery was drastically different from the north. Suddenly, we were plunged into the world of red sand and desert dunes, heading towards the Sahara and the Atlas mountains (which we will have to return to Morocco another time to see!).



As we pulled into the Marrakesh train station, it felt as though we were in a totally different Morocco than we had been - the train station was shiny, modern and new and very luxurious compared to all the others we had seen. We hailed a "petit taxi" (which only travel within cities, whereas the "grand taxi" would travel intercity) and were dropped off in the center of the medina.

All medinas have several "doors" or entrance ways, some of which are large enough for traffic, and some are only small enough for pedestrians.



We succumbed to another "guide" that dragged us all around the market and medina to find a suitably cheap hostel. Finally, after settling in, we ventured out for our last supper before heading into the night market stalls. After feasting as we had, we sadly had to turn down the tempting dish of snail soup.



We took our time, although it was raining once again, to look through many stands and shops for souvenirs and gifts.





After a long day of travelling, we called it a night and woke up early to catch the start of the morning market. The market in the Marrakesh medina was probably the most interesting and varied of them all. We certainly wished we had a bit more time to explore.



As we had been advised, we took every opportunity to have freshly squeezed orange juice while in Marrakesh, which was wonderfully scrumptious. We also delved into the fresh dates and nuts readily available at multiple stands...



We had very little time before we had to make our way to the airport, but we managed to catch a few glances at the local wares. Here, we met a friendly perfume and fragrance peddler. (We had been certain he was selling strange herbs, bones and roots for medicine...but were completely wrong!)



As we were leaving the old medina, we were stopped by some men with some poor chained monkeys and before we knew it, they had two monkeys on Adam's shoulders - no matter that we protested or not. Of course, once the monkeys touch you or you take a single picture, they charge you an arm and a leg....luckily, haggling and standing your ground still works internationally.



We took yet another petit taxi and were once again amazed as we arrived at the airport of how modern and impressive things could be.

We flew safely back to Spain, feeling as though we had seen a great deal, and yet so little of a fascinating country. Having travelled to many places around the world, I can honestly say that Morocco gave me the greatest culture shock of all and although there were some truly trying times (especially regarding being harassed not only as a tourist but as a woman), I would love to return to experience the daunting Sahara desert and do the many beautiful walks of the Rif and Atlast mountains.

A quick reunion with Josephine (Julio's mother), sharing our stories and pictures of Morocco, and a sad farewell with Julito, we took an overnight bus to Barcelona...the last stop before returning to the UK.

Please stay tuned for the adventures of Adam and Estella in Barcelona!

Gaudi Mirror

Gaudi Mirror
Sometimes a reflection is the best shot!

Sagrada Familia

Sagrada Familia
Ever under construction...

Antoni Gaudi creations...

Antoni Gaudi creations...
On the ceilings of a raised platform, Gaudi's ceramic mosaic creations abound!

Entrance of Park Guell

Entrance of Park Guell
These magical houses welcome you into the most creative park imaginable.

Ah..the architecture of Barcelona!

Ah..the architecture of Barcelona!
Somehow very reminiscent of Russia, no?

Standing guard...

Standing guard...
At the front of the National Palace Museum, these handsome figures look over the vast city

The National Palace Art Museum

The National Palace Art Museum
Impressive even at night!

Mosque of Hassan

Mosque of Hassan
Mostly the minaret and the foundation remain of this mosque, built in the 12th century

Guarded entrance to Hassan Mosque

Guarded entrance to Hassan Mosque
Two mounted guards stand patiently as the tourists pass....

Medina walls of Sale

Medina walls of Sale
Across the shore from Rabat

Stop.

Stop.
or...so we guessed.

Stop again.

Stop again.
Either Julio became a giant or the sign could be higher up....

Taxi line-up.....

Taxi line-up.....
Are they paying off the officer for something? Only they know...

Coca Cola

Coca Cola
You too can learn to read in Arabic!

Moroccan toilet and shower

Moroccan toilet and shower
all in one! you first.

Hassan II

Hassan II
Second largest Mosque in the world

Hassan II fountain

Hassan II fountain
Arabic style mosaic tiles....gorgeous

White walls, blue doors of Chefchaouen

White walls, blue doors of Chefchaouen
Enchanting.

Blue door.

Blue door.
Chaouen tradition

Paparazzi shots...

Paparazzi  shots...
An unsuspecting little girl and her pink umbrella....

Blue nooks and corners

Blue nooks and corners
If you explore enough, you come across little magical places

Rooftop vantage

Rooftop vantage
Getting a break from the rain, Adam looks out from the hostel roof top

Marrakesh Market

Marrakesh Market
Decorative dried chameleons, anyone?

Bad idea No.1

Bad idea No.1
Some people just do not have the same sense for danger...

Bad Idea No.2

Bad Idea No.2
Again. Dangerous? Apparently not.

Bad Idea No.3

Bad Idea No.3
You would think there were better ways to transport so many eggs....

Bad Idea No.4

Bad Idea No.4
Muslim country...conservative clothing...not so for the young American sorority girl! In fact...shall I bend over and show you my white thong?

Moroccan garbage truck.

Moroccan garbage truck.
The many uses of a donkey...

"I'm coming to get you, Bin Laden!"

"I'm coming to get you, Bin Laden!"
The funniest toy ever...George Bush Jr. chasing Bin Laden on a track....

Royal Palace

Royal Palace
Here we are in sunny Spain, in front of the Royal Palace in Madrid

Plaza de Toros

Plaza de Toros
The famous bullfighting of Spain...

Museo de Jamon

Museo de Jamon
This enormous wall of ham legs left our mouths watering and our bellies crying out for JAMON!!!

At a snail's pace...

At a snail's pace...
As it was a rainy day, we found many little friends along the way!

Stopping to smell the flowers...

Stopping to smell the flowers...
Unfortunately, we do not know the name of this flower, but the interesting shape and colour says it all!

Melissa and me

Melissa and me
It was so nice to have a bit more time with dear Melissa

One of many giant doors...

One of many giant doors...
Why are they so big?

El Palacio de El Escorial

El Palacio de El Escorial
The grounds were immaculate and pristine.

El Palacia de El Escorial

El Palacia de El Escorial
Another shot of the gardens...

Segovia Aqueducts

Segovia Aqueducts
The Romans built these over 2000 years ago and they are gigantic and still standing!

Top view of the Aqueducts

Top view of the Aqueducts
A perilous climb for Julio gave us a shot of the view on top, where the water would have been running!

Segovia town center

Segovia town center
As dusk came upon us, a beautiful moon took its place...

Alcazar Castle

Alcazar Castle
Does this castle remind you of any other famous castle?

Night view of Segovia Aqueducts

Night view of Segovia Aqueducts
Adam managed to capture the eerie feel of history...

Behind bars...

Behind bars...
I was going to send this picture to our mothers to jokingly ask for bail money! :P

Palencia sites

Palencia sites
One of the many interesting old architectures of the town...

Statue in sepia tone

Statue in sepia tone
Our new world upbringing causes us to immediately see KKK member instead of religious figure...how about you?

Nature shall reign in the end...

Nature shall reign in the end...
Isn't it amazing how things can grow anywhere?

Walking in the Espiguete mountains of Palencia

Walking in the Espiguete mountains of Palencia
Adam and Julio pause for a picture

Nothing like red wine to refresh yourself during a walk in the mountains!

Nothing like red wine to refresh yourself during a walk in the mountains!
Not as easy as it looks, although Julio mastered it quite readily...while I made a big mess of myself!

Bathing buddies...

Bathing buddies...
We were making two batches of Korean chicken soup when one wing caught on the edge and gave us this idea....a bit morbid, we agree.

Some more funny signs we found on our travels

Some more funny signs we found on our travels
Don't the children look like they are running for their lives??

Hmmm....

Hmmm....
Never really figured this one out...

Ain't that the truth!??!?

Ain't that the truth!??!?
You have to appreciate this poster...even as a non beer drinker!

Unos pican y otros non!

Unos pican y otros non!
Some spicy and some don't! Very delicious small salted green peppers...

Scary dolls....

Scary dolls....
I have always disliked certain dolls...too many horror films as a child...but these are nuns on top of it!

Cool camera reflection

Cool camera reflection
Adam managed to catch Julio in his own camera!

Bull or cow?

Bull or cow?
I am embarassed to admit that I had never seen a cow with horns before!

Quarteira Beach

Quarteira Beach
We took full advantage of the sunny weather!

Fancy dinners...

Fancy dinners...
At the top of the hill, right on the resort grounds, we found a jewel of a restaurant called Casa Azul...great food and within walking distance!

Lisboa backdrop

Lisboa backdrop
The rooftops of the city were beautiful to see...the white and red colours were such a great contrast to the blue sea and sky!

Salisbury Cathedral

Salisbury Cathedral
The second largest cathedral in England, reaching its 750th year this year!

Salisbury Cathedral interior

Salisbury Cathedral interior
Although beautiful cathedrals are a dime a dozen in Europe, you can definitely still be impressed!

Salisbury Cathedral interior 2

Salisbury Cathedral interior 2
Notice that along both sides of the walls, there are giant pipe organs! Would have been amazing to attend a concert there.

Salisbury Cathedral interior 3

Salisbury Cathedral interior 3
Beautiful stained-glass windows along every wing and wall, unfortunately, it was rather difficult to truly get the colours.

Adam in Salisbury

Adam in Salisbury
Some interesting crests upon archways...

The QUEEN!!!

The QUEEN!!!
Along with great sites in Salisbury, we got a real nice close-up of the Queen too! (okay, it´s only a picture of a postcard...)

The True Stonehenge

The True Stonehenge
Not nearly as mysterious and enchanting as you would expect, eh?

The Sun in the flora

The Sun in the flora
We happened across this beautiful flower, so brilliant in colour it's almost unreal.

Important Caution signs...

Important Caution signs...
Since "common sense" isn't always so "common"...

Hot Ice

Hot Ice
Things to ponder....

We have company!!!

We have company!!!
Berna, Jamie and Adam cozy on the couch

What?!?! No Guinness!?!??

What?!?!  No Guinness!?!??
Sorry, Gaz...the boys were too full for a real pint....

Birthday Dinner

Birthday Dinner
A chance to dress up and have a romantic meal together!!!

Up close and personal...

Up close and personal...
Who's schmoopey?!

New Forest

New Forest
A lovely stroll through these quiet woods made a great Saturday afternoon!

New Forest

New Forest
Guess who!!?!?

Darren and Nicola

Darren and Nicola
What would we do without great friends and hosts?

The Road Not Taken

The Road Not Taken
"Then took the other, as just as fair, And having perhaps the better claim, Because it was grassy and wanted wear..."

"Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -

"Two roads diverged in a wood, and I -
I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference."

The gang at the local pub

The gang at the local pub
Everybody needs a local pub....

Nicola and me

Nicola and me
Cheers!

Homemade Faggots...

Homemade Faggots...
Things are a little different here...

Sunsets in Lancing

Sunsets in Lancing
Every dusk, we enjoyed the view from Austen's bay windows...

Old friends reunited

Old friends reunited
After a decade apart, Austen and I had a chance to really catch up again!

Merry Monk

Merry Monk
Why are monks in England often portrayed so??!!?

Brighton Buses!!!

Brighton Buses!!!
Our Lonely Planet book warned us that double decker buses were almost a thing of the past...not so down here in the south coast!

Brighton Pier

Brighton Pier
Famous for its pebble beaches, Brighton also has a well known pier!

Royal Pavillion

Royal Pavillion
Although not typically English looking, the pavillion is still beautiful and apparently great for weddings!

Royal Pavillion

Royal Pavillion
Another shot of the pavillion in Brighton

Thai food in Worthing

Thai food in Worthing
Sharing a nice meal with Austen

Marmite Crisps!!!

Marmite Crisps!!!
You may have heard of Vegemite and Marmite...but have you heard of Marmite chips?!?? Now, you HAVE seen it all!

Guinness Red

Guinness Red
Happiness found...the limited Guinness Red...sweet sweet beer...

Ah, Guinnesses!!!!

Ah, Guinnesses!!!!
Adam at O'Neills in Brighton

Oh My!

Oh My!
just read it carefully...hehe

Snow snow snow!!!

Snow snow snow!!!
All this snow accumulated in a mere few hours..gotta love Onterrible!

Christmas dinner at home

Christmas dinner at home
untraditional but yummy dinner!!!

Japan Times

Here are some highlights of our time in Japan.
We were lucky enough to make wonderful new friends
and also get to visit some kindred spirits along the way.
Although our time there was cut short by a few months,
we have plenty of memories to cherish.

Kyoto Temple

Kyoto Temple
Historic Kyoto sites!

Hanami

Hanami
Beautiful Japanese cherry blossoms

Kurashiki

Kurashiki
Us with Tomoko

Kyoto Temple

Kyoto Temple

A-Bomb Dome of Hiroshima

A-Bomb Dome of Hiroshima

Flame Tree

Flame Tree
don't know the real name...

Japanese quirks

Japanese quirks
how many hours in your day?

Being Japanese

Being Japanese
getting ready for the hot springs!